Review: the LÖBNER Steelracer Chronograph
There are two kinds of tool watches out there. There are the tool watches we typically think of: sporty, rugged types, often divers or field watches, that can take a beating. And then there is the other type of tool watches, which are simply watches that resemble tools. No, not in the human sense, but rather technical items like gauges and other instruments. Germany’s LÖBNER’s current watches firmly fit in the latter category, though they are not unwelcome in the former.
Founded in 1862, LÖBNER specialized in precision timing equipment, such as stopwatches that could time to 1/100th of a second, as well as military chronoscopes that went all the way to 1/1000th of a second. They were a timekeeper at the Olympic Games, and worked closely with motorsports. The brand ceased operation in 1944 and was revived in 2023 with the launch of both three-hand and chronograph models.
Designed by Emmanuel Dietrich, also of the eponymous brand Dietrich, for its relaunch, LÖBNER set out to create luxury timepieces that speak to this heritage while pursuing a distinct personality through a strict design language and novel functionality. The resulting models, a three-hander with an internal bezel called Sledge and a chronograph called Steelracer, feature angular integrated bracelet designs and dials with a graphic sensibility.
LÖBNER was kind enough to send both over to check out, though for the sake of brevity, this review focuses on the Steelracer chronograph. Featuring an integrated bracelet design as well as an off-set time display on its dial, the Steelracer is a bold and contemporary debut that stands out in a market of largely vintage-inspired chronographs. With that said, the Steelracer is priced at $13,900 at US retailers, giving it some stiff competition.
Review: the LÖBNER Steelracer Chronograph
Steel
LÖBNER CAL. L6223
Ice Blue
No
Sapphire
Integrated Bracelet
10 ATM
42 x 48mm
15mm
mm
Push-Pull
Yes
$13900
Case
There is nothing gentle about the case of the Steelracer. The lines are sharp, the surfaces are flat, the angles are severe. The sides are straight up and down. The mid-body runs straight across, parallel to the wrist, and on either side of the case are blocky protrusions. Now, this is not to say it lacks elegance. There’s a rigid refinement to it and a balance to the elements that is satisfying. But smooth, slick, aerodynamic, and other terms that imply fluid forms are not likely to be uttered in its presence.
It’s also not a small watch. The Steelracer has a barrel-shaped integrated bracelet design that measures 48mm in width, including the bumper on the left and the “Sledge®” crownguard on the right, 42mm at the bezel, 48.3mm end-to-end, and 15mm thick (all by my measure). Additionally, the chronograph pushers bow out and run nearly the length of the watch, adding to its overall visual mass.
With that said, the pushers and the Sledge crownguard are the unique elements of the design. As one can plainly see, there is no crown visible at three, but rather a metal box in its place. Well, here’s the fun part: the box slides up, revealing the hidden and well-protected, albeit very tiny, crown within. Novel? Yes. Needed? The jury is out. It adds a rugged and even industrial element to the design, though I question if, practically speaking, having a rather harsh metal box on the side of a watch is ideal. Frankly, I feel like I’d be more likely to snag the box than hit a crown. One interesting thing to note is how the cover works. Rather than being an independent part, like on a Panerai, it’s part of the bezel construction, rotating around the dial under the tachymeter.
The extra-long pushers, which, ironically, also would protect the crown, are a more appealing novel element. Curved from the top down, flat and square in profile, at a glance, they don’t appear to be pushers at all. I like it when brands get away from typical pusher shapes, as it’s an opportunity for creativity, though few take it. Visually, their curved silhouettes are the only counterpoint to the otherwise angular design. Practically, they also provide a lot of surface area to press down on. One issue with the design, however, is due to the Sledge cover, not the pushers themselves. Because of their shape, when pressing down, part of your finger will likely rest against the edge of the cover, which isn’t a particularly pleasant feeling.
Dial
Let’s cut to the chase, the dial has a relatively noticeable quirk: the time is not told at the center, but rather at an offset subdial placed in the upper left corner. Offset time displays are one of my favorite design features to find on any watch, but especially on a chronograph. I happen to own one such watch by Chronoswiss, a Kairos from the 90s, and it’s truly a special take on a relatively common complication. It’s also not just an aesthetic choice, as separating the time and chronograph functions makes both more legible.
As far as the details go, in contrast to the hard-lined, dense case, the dial is relatively open and airy. All of the indexes feature numerals and ladder designs, all in thin black lines and type. The typeface, which looks like Futura, is very appealing, having a precise, modern feel. Open space is used well on the dial, as nothing feels crowded, even on the smaller sub-dials, with numerals used only as necessary. Similarly, branding and text, all printed in small, clean type, don’t crowd.
Given the brand’s history with instruments and chronographs, the dial is successful at bridging the past and the present. It just feels like something a precision instrument maker would design. It’s incredibly legible and restrained. The separation of the time and chronograph elements also makes you want to use the chronograph, more so than on a standard layout.
With that said, I feel like the specific coloration of the version seen is a bit of an odd choice. Yes, ice blues are very trendy, and it’s not unattractive by any means, but it feels more like a decision made for fashion than concept, especially with the rose gold-toned hands on the time display. There are, of course, other versions of the Steelracer, specifically with black or silver dials that make more sense, at least to my eye.
Though technically not the dial, the external tachymeter, which sits on the flat, brushed top surface of the bezel, acts as an extension of the chrono-seconds counter. Displayed as black text, which appears to be engraved and filled, it’s clean and easy to read. Though tachymeters are always of questionable practicality, they are a standard feature on racing chronographs, so it is not surprising to see. It also works with the overall instrument aesthetic.
Movement
The Steelracer is powered by the LÖBNER caliber L6223, which appears to be a bespoke module paired with a La Joux-Perret L1XX series base. As such, it’s a 60-hour automatic with 26-jewels, a frequency of 28,800 bph, and column-wheel actuation. It’s nicely decorated with perlage, Côtes de Genève, blued screws, as well as a blued column-wheel, which is prominently displayed. Though seen less than Valjoux, Sellita, or AMT (which is part of Sellita) chronographs, La Joux-Perret is a highly regarded Swiss movement manufacturer that is part of the Citizen group. Other than the dial-side display, the column wheel is a standout feature that creates a smoother actuation feel.
Bracelet and Wearability
The Steelracer bracelet has an integrated lug design and a single-link construction. It measures 27mm in width at the lug but quickly tapers to 19mm, thankfully. Each link features a crest that runs horizontally, allowing for two distinctly finished areas: polished on the upper half and brushed on the lower. Though I typically shy away from large polished areas on bracelets, this unique finishing concept shines in a dynamic and enjoyable way that, while quite noticeable, doesn’t feel opulent.
I’m a bit biased when it comes to bracelets, as I don’t find them comfortable for long periods of wear, so with that caveat in mind, the Steelracer’s bracelet seems perfectly alright. The tapering helps as it limits the weight and the amount of surface area making contact, but it’s still a decent amount of metal against the wrist. In terms of looks, I do like how it was finished, and the relatively simple link shape (compared to multi-link designs) echoes the lines of the case, making them look appropriately paired.
With the 42mm diameter and 48mm peak width in mind, the Steelracer is surprisingly easy to wear. While not subtle, it doesn’t look oversized on my 6.75” wrist, largely thanks to the short lug-to-lug length, which is a perk to integrated designs. The 48mm width to the end of the Sledge guard is more concerning, but in my time with the watch, I didn’t have any issues with it. One concern is that it is heavy, particularly on the bracelet, which could lead to discomfort. Obviously, a titanium version would help remedy this, but that would make the name “Steelracer” awkward.
Conclusion
The LÖBNER Steelracer is two watch concepts attempting to coexist. First, there’s the case concept. An integrated design with a brutalist sensibility, it introduces a novel, if unnecessary, crown protection system, as well as oversized pushers. It’s rugged and bulky, though not without some elegance, as is expected from a luxury sports watch. It speaks to bravado and a somewhat conspicuous personality.
Second is the dial concept (or maybe it should be first?). Restrained, clean, and airing on minimal, it distinguishes itself with a unique offset time display placed within a chronograph. It’s elegant, legible, and well-balanced. It speaks to contemporary graphic design and precision instruments. It comes across as reserved and even modest. And, to be blunt, I think the case ultimately distracts from it.
It’s not a total mismatch; there is a particular Germanic flavor to it all, as well as luxurious intentions, but I’d prefer not to have my attention split. The case, to me, is more divisive. It’s large and harsh, and by virtue of having an integrated bracelet, limiting. The Sledge guard is clever, but that doesn’t mean I really want it. The dial, however, is easy to digest, letting you take in the weirdness of the offset time display with little other challenge. And, more to the point, it’s enough to give Steelracer the personality it needs to compete.
Which brings me to the $13,900 price tag. I’m not going to beat around the bush, that’s a high price to pay for an unknown brand with a 3rd party, if modified movement, a steel case and bracelet, and decent but not exemplary finishing. To put it into context, that’s more than a ceramic IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun, a steel Breitling Navitimer B01, many types of Speedmaster, and is only about 2k shy of a steel Daytona (not that you can get one). The reason I am putting against these large, mainstream brands is that, in the US, LÖBNERs are available in store at Bucherer, where these other watches are sold.
While I don’t know what it costs to make a Steelracer, nor their markup, just based on my experience and general knowledge, I would pit it against watches in the $6,000 – $8,000 range. Hardly inexpensive, and still a price that speaks to a very high-quality watch, but not five-figures either. Other than the inevitable “this costs too much” comments, my concern is that LÖBNER is not pricing itself for the correct customer. Compared to the brands mentioned above, the Steelracer is esoteric and a bit challenging given its novel attributes. Its customers are not first-time luxury watch buyers; instead, they are educated enthusiasts looking for something unique.
Obviously, I hope the brand is doing well, and I am wrong about this assumption, but as is, LÖBNER is on to something intriguing with the Steelracer. I don’t think it’s quite there yet, and a more digestible case would go a long way, as the dial and chronograph module are worth celebrating. LÖBNER
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