Review: the Furlan Marri Disco Volante Onyx Diamonds

The newest release by independent brand Furlan Marri adds a bit of bling to an out-of-this-world Art Deco staple. The brand teased their release of the new Disco Volante Onyx Diamonds this April at Watches and Wonders in Geneva, after the success of the line’s initial debut last year (which was covered here by Zach Kazan).

The addition of diamonds on watches is something I have thought about often. My existence as a woman in the watch world frequently demands a more honest reflection about the intersection of watches and jewelry, and where my preferences fit in. Diamonds can either elevate or detract from a watch as a whole. One of the perks of reviewing watches is that I get to experience a large variety of designs that push the boundaries of my comfort zone and expose me to references that cover a wide array of aesthetics. I’ve been able to wear teeny-tiny little somethings and classically-inspired beauties that often belie the usual style of my personal collection. Certainly, I consider myself a more critical and informed collector because of it. 

Diamonds can be divisive – something I covered in my analysis of the release of the Doxa Sub 200T Diamonds last year. I will be the first to admit that when I see “diamonds” in the name of a new watch, my defenses go up a bit and I brace myself for subtly garish wealth-signaling disguised as intentional design choices. But when it comes to the new Furlan Marri Disco Volante Onyx Diamonds, I was so relieved to be proven wrong.

Everything about the brand’s new release feels measured and well-considered. This was my first experience with Furlan Marri, and also with the Disco Volante style, which originated in the late 1930s. The lugless case and recessed crown gives these watches a disc-like shape reminiscent of a UFO – the name literally means “flying saucer” in Italian.

The first thing I noticed was the 38mm case profile. I so often factor lug length into my overall impression of a watch and it was a bit jarring to have such a central component missing. The 316L stainless steel case has a stepped bezel with two distinctly concentric tiers with satin brushing and mirror polishing. The integrated crown sits nearly flush with the bezel and has slightly curved teeth that aid in winding and setting. The watch – including the double-coated anti-reflective (and anti-finger print) sapphire crystal – is a slim 8.95mm. If “meltiness” was a metric by which we could measure watch fit, the Furlan Marri Disco Volante line would receive top marks. It just fades beautifully into the wrist.

The wearing experience is decidedly vintage. Even against my 5.75 inch wrist, the Disco Volante remains demure, and I caught myself doubting the specs suggested by the brand. “How,” I questioned more than once, “can this be 38mm, when there’s so much space left around my wrist?” Hidden-lug designs will do that, but my mind’s rigid sense of proportions, honed by the many 38mm watches I’ve experienced in recent years, just wouldn’t let me believe it. 

Part of this effect can be credited to the movement. The Disco Volante Onyx Diamonds is powered by the ultra-thin ETA Peseux 7001, which boasts a measurement of a mere 2.5mm and a power reserve of 42 hours. Though many brands favor the Peseux 7001, Furlan Marri elevates the caliber through additional hand-finishing on the bridges, chamfering around the stones, and a sunray brushing on the wheels which pairs delightfully with the Côtes de Genève finish. This is a long way of saying that the back of the watch almost out-shines the diamonds on the other side, and highlights the brand’s commitment to maintaining an artistic throughline – and leaving their own mark – on every piece of this reference.

The stone dial is crafted from highly polished black onyx and features a running seconds subdial at six o’clock. The syringe hands feature small BGW9 Super-LumiNova inserts, which was a nice surprise on this vintage-inspired dress watch. True to its name, six lab-grown baguette diamonds mark the even hours, sans six o’clock. Unlike other diamond watches (*achem* Doxa…), these hour markers are a tasteful use of gem-setting that actually serves to enhance the overall aesthetic without dominating it. In certain angles, the baguette diamonds appear to be applied metal indices. However, they give the dial a sense of depth and elegance that wouldn’t be possible with another medium. Instead of the diamonds serving as superficial garnish on top of a bezel or dial – as many gem-set watches often fall prey to – Furlan Marri has crafted a functional role for their jewels that takes a simple dial and turns it into something incredibly handsome  and much more alluring. This is, simply put, a design that leads with intention.

The 20mm herringbone-style mesh bracelet kept the watch perfectly centered on my wrist, without the natural slippage I find with longer-lugged watches. The sliding clasp allowed me to pick my perfect size anywhere along the bracelet, and I found myself adjusting it with ease throughout my day, always ensuring the watch was snug. The woven pattern complements the refined yet simple dial perfectly – though a black leather strap is also available. Both feature quick-release spring bars.

Overall, the Furlan Marri Disco Volante Onyx Diamonds is a masterclass in thoughtful incorporation of precious gems in a way that sets the brand apart from those who view diamonds as mere decorations. Each piece of this watch feels like it fits into a cohesive narrative: one that highlights how quality isn’t simply measured in carats – it’s found in the details that speak with purpose.

The Disco Volante Onyx Diamonds is being offered as a limited edition on the brand’s website for CHF 3,500.

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